Let’s get this out of the way early: no one that knows me would describe me as adventurous. Even less would bring up off-roading prowess. They might mention that I’m a not-so-secret nerd with a proclivity for getting wrapped up in just about anything that will shift me from this planet to one where elves and magic carry more weight than fast food and the unseen forces of late-stage capitalism. So, when the opportunity to see a landscape like Iceland came my way; I had no choice but to jump on it.
I have a planning phase when it comes to my usual trips: open up the map, find the squiggly lines, pop over to Turo, and rent the car that will carve them up at a “reasonable and sensible” pace. There are no shortage of twists and turns where I’m headed. They’re the kind of switchbacks and elevation changes you can only dream of being situated in Boston where the tarmac leaves much to be desired. This would be ideal for someone like me save for one small problem. These roads are dirt at best and covered with river crossings at worst.
Time for a new kind of fun! Prior to this, any driving I’ve done that could be considered high performance has been on racetracks and focused more on hitting apexes than avoiding boulders. What better place to tackle an entirely new form of motoring than in an unfamiliar country. It’s like starting from scratch and I was here for it.
I’ve been stuck on the phrase, “If it’s worth doing, it’s worth overdoing.” for as long as I can remember, so the vehicle of choice might be considered overkill for the task at hand. After hitting the ground at Keflavik airport (and making sure I stocked up at the duty free shop), I was headed straight for the rental shop and climbing into a 2024 Toyota Land Cruiser “Mountain.” I leave Mountain in quotes because it’s still unclear to me if this is an actual trim level on offer or just how the rental company chooses to describe it. Either way, this is a base truck outfitted to eat up whatever terrain comes its way. It’s powered by a 2.8-liter turbodiesel, lifted 3” from stock height, sitting on 33” Cooper Discoverer tires, and bringing in air from the top through a snorkel. I’m good to go.
First drive is just a cruise to where I’ll be sleeping and it serves as a reminder of the only times I’ll feel silly while taking this on: the highway portions. The tires are loud, the snorkel is reduced to a decoration, and I can’t help but feel just a bit wasteful. But hey, the torn up gravel road to the cabin was a breeze. Pros and cons!
Where it actually gets fun seems to directly correspond with how high the trail goes and how low your confidence in what you’re doing dips. Most of Iceland’s highland roads (F-roads, the ones that traverse the middle of the country) were closed at the time of visiting thanks to a poorly timed winter storm…in June. I thought this would take some of the fun out of it, but as I look back, I think this was for the best. It allowed me to still make my way through plenty of obstacles without the constant doubt ringing through my mind. It seemed that anywhere I wanted to visit involved at least a portion of technical skill that made getting to the destination even more rewarding.
It all came together for me on my last day of real driving. No concrete plans, no particular destination in mind, just pure exploration on Snaefellsnes Peninsula. The weather wouldn’t let up. It was nothing but cold, pounding rain from the minute I opened my eyes until my head hit the pillow late that night. But as I moved the truck through mud and ruts further away from any hint of a city, it felt like I cracked the code. This is why people hunt for trails. This is why you chase the unfamiliar. Surrounded by volcanoes and waterfalls, absolutely soaking wet, and knowing that all that mattered in that moment was where I stood. What’s better?
What started as a good excuse to drive differently turned into some serious moments of self-discovery. Funny how that happens. It wasn’t too long ago that I wouldn’t have been able to fathom being in a position to even consider a trip like this, which made an already otherworldly experience even more surreal. I’ll be looking forward to my next chance to get into an overbuilt truck and head off into the middle of nowhere. I’ve got so much to learn.
